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Article #189: Notting Hill And Portobello Road Market Explained

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There are three dimensions to Notting Road.
Hill. First the area of shops and streets Porto Bello, in the Gulf of Mexico, was
around Notting Hill Gate, with a fair captured from Spain by Admiral Vernon in
amount of buzz and interest, and some 1739, and a farm in the countryside north
quaint artisan housing all madly of here was patriotically named after it.
fashionable today: second, Portobello This road once led to that farm.
Road market, to be seen any day, but in Nothing much happens to start with, but
full flood only on Saturdays and third, after crossing Chepstow Villas with big
for the housing enthusiast, the Victorian detached houses, as you would
extravagances of the Ladbroke Grove expect from the name, you reach very
Estate. respectable antique shops and rather less
This route covers all three aspects respectable antique stalls, where there
consecutively, but it makes quite a long is plenty to explore. Keep going, over
walk. Be aware that the Notting Hill Westbourne Grove. At the crossing of
Carnival takes place in the last weekend Elgin Crescent and Colville Terrace, the
of August. street market becomes more conventional
Start at Notting Gate station (Central selling fruit and vegetables but just as
and Circle Lines). First briefly explore vivid.
the now attractive streets on the south There has been a market here since 1871,
side of the main road Litigate Street or starting with gypsies buying and selling
Farmer Street, for example, Hillgate horses for the Hippodrome (see below). It
Place running east west provides a frame. brought down the standard of the
These densely packed terraces date from neighbourhood, as at Covent Garden, but
1851 and were designed to house artisans the overspill of antiques from the closed
providing services for the wealthy all Caledonian market after the Second World
around. It was a hopeless cause, and they War, restored the tone somewhat.
soon had multiple occupants and turned After Blenheim Crescent you are in the
into serious slums. There is little historic part of Portobello Road. On the
evidence of that now in the painted left is the Electric Cinema,
facades window boxes and fast cars in the purpose-built and one of the earliest
street. 20C gentrification has had some opened in 1911.
benefits. There are also some excellent bookshops,
Note the Coronet Cinema (1898), converted including the Travel Bookshop and Books
for cinema use in 1916. Cross back at for Cooks. To the right down Talbot Road
the station to go up Pembridge Road, there is an unusual church, All Saints by
forking right: shops have been added to William White, built in the 1850s to be
the fronts of the houses. Then go left to the centre of a new religious community
begin the long journey up Portobello here, which never materialised.






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